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Superficial Chemical Peels

Superficial chemical peels are a low-cost way to fade sun freckles, improve acne, and soften fine lines over a series of treatments.
Dr. Joni Sago

Dr. Joni Sago, MD

Board-Certified Dermatologist

What Are Superficial Chemical Peels?

We recommend superficial chemical peels for concerns such as acne and anti-aging. There is scientific data to show that repeated superficial peels can achieve the same results as a deeper peel (which is far more uncomfortable and requires time off from work or school). Regular peels can fade unwanted sun freckles, improve acne, and lessen fine lines and wrinkles. Of course, have realistic expectations: this isn’t plastic surgery! The nice thing is that the cost point of superficial peels is very “appealing!” We suggest glycolic acid for normal to dry skin and salicylic acid for oily skin. These are meant to be applied by a licensed aesthetician but can be applied at home using some precautions.

Who Should Not Use Them

Do NOT use a superficial peel if:

  • Your natural skin color is caramel or darker. This treatment is not for Native Americans, Asians, African Americans, or for anyone who gets very significant dark places in the skin with skin injury.
  • You’ve used Accutane® in the last 3 months or have undergone any recent chemotherapy.
  • You have a cut or wound on your face.
  • You have an active fever blister.
  • You’ve had plastic surgery in the prior 6 months.
  • You are pregnant or planning to be pregnant.

Preparing for the Peel

  • Using Retin-A® (tretinoin) or a derivative (like retinol) for two weeks prior to the peel enhances the outcome. Then wait two weeks after stopping to use a chemical or acid peel.
  • Perform a patch test behind the ear (it has similar density to oil glands on the face) to make sure you don’t get any scarring or dark places from the peel.
  • Do not apply near the eyes or on the lips.
  • Cleanse the skin thoroughly and rinse well.
  • Moisten a cotton ball with plain acetone (from the nail section of Sally’s Beauty Supply) and wring it out so it isn’t dripping. Scrub the face vigorously for about 2 minutes, avoiding the eye area.

Performing the Peel

  • Shake the peel solution so that you get an even concentration.
  • Moisten a cotton ball with the peel solution and wring it out so it’s not dripping.
  • Apply the peel solution, working quickly: you want to try to cover the whole face in about 30 seconds using even, light pressure so the effect is even.
  • It will burn, so you may want to have a hand-held fan around.
  • Start with the forehead because the skin there is thicker and can tolerate longer exposure to the peeling agent.
  • Avoid the entire eye area as well as the creases around the nose and corner of the mouth.
  • Leave the peel solution on NO LONGER THAN 5 MINUTES, or NO LONGER THAN 1 MINUTE FOR FIRST-TIME USERS.
  • After 2–5 minutes (depending on tolerance), rinse it off with plain water OR water that has baking soda in it. (Wash off immediately if it is extremely uncomfortable.)
  • Do not just splash the rinse water on your face. Wet a washrag, wring it out so it isn’t dripping, and lay it on the face. NO scrubbing. Every 30 seconds, re-wet the washrag and lay it on the face again. Usually 2–3 passes is adequate.
  • To make the baking soda solution, add ⅛ cup to a pint of water.
  • I find that the peel solution burns more when rinsing it off.
  • After thoroughly rinsing/neutralizing the solution, there should be NO MORE stinging.
  • Stinging indicates that the product is still active on your skin, and this can result in burns or scabs.
  • If the peel causes intense burning that lasts longer than an hour, call the office.
  • If you experience burns or scabs, you may have used too strong a solution or left the peel on for longer than needed.
  • DO NOT pick at scabs, and apply a moisturizer daily.

After the Peel

  • Apply a thick, bland moisturizer after the peel (and daily) such as CeraVe® cream, Vaseline®, or Aquaphor®. When going out, avoid too much sun exposure and wear a sunscreen that is SPF 30 or higher.
  • You may experience redness or splotchiness for a few hours. Then, after 2–3 days, you should experience a fine peeling (similar to a sunburn).
  • DO NOT peel the skin off early or you may scar.
  • A peeling that leaves raw areas on the skin is NOT expected.
  • Gently wash your face: NO vigorous scrubbing.
  • You may wear makeup during the healing process, but it often does not cover the flaking well.
  • You may repeat the peel every 2–4 weeks in the fall/winter.
  • You can use these peels on the back, but ask us first if you want to try them on the neck or arms (these areas are at much higher risk for problems).

Have questions about chemical peels, or want me to take a look at your skin? You can book online or call the office at 423-528-8833. This page is for general education, not a substitute for a personal exam.